Under

If you're after a bakery in Mawson, ACT, Under is the one people line up for. The tagline says it plainly: bullar and bread straight from the oven. It's a small shopfront with a big following, and people will happily drive across Canberra for what comes out of it.

The cardamom bun is the name that comes up first. Locals describe it as fragrant, soft and not overly sweet, and the cinnamon bun gets the same kind of devotion. One person came back two days running. The croissants are another draw, sweet and savoury, from almond to ham and cheese, and plenty of folks rank them alongside the best they've had anywhere, Melbourne included. Pain au chocolat, kouign-amann and a fig danish all get a mention too.

On the savoury side, the focaccias are generous in both topping and portion. Potato and kale, potato and eggplant, and fennel, grape and cheese have all won fans. We hear the sourdough and the dark rye loaf are well worth taking home, and there's a reputation for pies and for a chewy dark chocolate rye cookie with a little salt on top.

Some practical things to know. It's mostly a takeaway operation, with limited seating and a modest drinks offering, so don't plan on lingering over a long coffee. The queue at opening is part of the experience, though two people serving keeps it moving, and the staff are friendly and attentive. Popular items do sell out, so earlier in the morning gives you the full choice. There is free parking nearby, the entrance and car park are wheelchair accessible, and they take cards and mobile payments.

Under also runs a second spot in Fyshwick, and you can order online for pickup from either location, booking ahead on a rolling schedule. Check the hours before you head in, as the shop isn't open every day of the week.